In a city of infinite variables, Yuca’s remains constant. “That’s how you maintain quality in what you offer,” says Dora. “People come back 10 to 15 years later and say it tastes exactly as they remembered — that’s what it’s all about.”

The Herrera women are unconcerned with how to evolve; they just continue to do what they do best, making simple, memorable food inspired by the recipes from their mother and grandmother’s rustic kitchen in Merida, where they both were raised. Dora believes that her mother’s insistence on doing things her way is what has kept Yuca’s thriving for so long.

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